My idea of comfort food is this very dish! Its refreshing and tasty, like eating a good chicken salad with the most scrumptious rice made from its chicken stock. My mum would whip this up for my brother and I when we came home from school and would eat it in front of Home & Away and Neighbours.
Because I love it so much, I once made this dish for a boy (who could have just been the love of my life that I let slip away) but he couldn't really eat it because he has a strange fear of chicken's
back! (I used a whole chicken instead of thighs)! ophhff! But I am
always reminded of him every time I go near a chicken's back. He still plays the double bass for Michael Buble and I met him about 8 or 9 years ago when no one knew who Michael Buble was at his first performance in London at Ronnie Scotts. The Double Bass Player walked straight up to me with the courage of a lion and asked me if I had enjoyed the show in his New Yorker accent and asked to take me out for a drink and we couldn't stop talking for the rest of the 5 day stay that they had in London. Whenever, Buble would be in town for a concert or for TV, we would meet.
Sometimes you don't realise when you are having it until you look back years later and say to yourself, those were the best days of my life! And they always involve this dish!
If you can't get rau ram (from Hackney's many supermarkets) you can use coriander or thai basil instead. Its also good with regular mint. You can easily grow rau ram aka hot mint or Vietnamese coriander - you can purchase these plants at Columbia Road Flower Market in Hackney on Sundays.
Ingredients
Serves 2 - 3
total cooking time 45 mins
CHICKEN
3 chicken thighs (460g)
1.2 litres of water
1 knorr chicken stock cube
PICKLED ONION
1 med red onion
3 tbs cider vinegar (aspall)
3 tsp caster sugar
pinch of salt
pinch of pepper
SALAD
10 stems of hot mint (rau ram) (20g)
10g coriander with stem
RICE
200g basmati rice
1 clove garlic
10g red onion
350ml chicken stock (from poaching chicken)
1 knob butter
DIPPING SAUCE
2tbs Three Crabs Brand fish sauce
2 tps caster sugar
10g ginger
1 birdseye chilli
1 garlic
1tbs cider vinegar (aspall)
2 tbs chicken stock (from poached chicken)
Method
Place chicken thighs in a pot with a lid with 1.2 litres of fresh cold water.
After about 7 minutes when the water boils, remove scum that surfaces then add a stock cube.
The chicken cooks for 30 mins in total
Meanwhile, slice the red onion as thinly as you can and pickle with vinegar, sugar and a pinch of salt and pepper in a bowl, mixing occasionally.
Wash and drain the rice. Save 10g (ends of) red onion and chop finely with a clove of garlic and sweat on low heat with a knob of butter in another (non stick) pot with a lid. Add the rice to soak up the flavours. You should be within 20 mins of poaching the chicken, take out 350ml of chicken stock and pour onto the rice with a pinch of salt and cover. This technique cooks the rice as well as steams it. Continue to cook the chicken. Once the rice comes to the boil, turn to low heat and continue to cook for 15 -20 mins, stirring occasionally.
Wash the herbs and leave to dry. Remove the stem of hot mint but leave coriander stems.
Prep the ginger, garlic and chilli for the sauce by finely chopping them together into a paste and make the dipping sauce by mixing it together with the fish sauce, vinegar and sugar. To make the sauce lighter, add in 2 tbs of the chicken stock.
After 30 mins, the chicken should be cooked, take out and rest for 10 mins while the rice is still cooking. The stock can be saved for other dishes.
Chop the herbs coarsely, (1cm).
Remove bones from the chicken and tear the thighs along the grain into a bowl. Discard the skin. Mix together with the pickled onions (do not add the pickling juices) and herbs, add a pinch of pepper.
Serve with rice and dipping sauce. The chicken salad should be served at room temperature.
Traditionally in separate bowls.
Wednesday, 27 June 2012
Monday, 25 June 2012
Bottle Apostle - Supper Club
| potato crème brûlée |
It was a the first time I had ever been to a supper club on my own and was rather nervous but thought, what the hell, I am going to really enjoy the food as I usually do at Viajante/ The Corner Room At The Town Hall Hotel. This is what is great about living in London - there are always different things to do and with regards to food, there are supper clubs and pop up events everywhere to enjoy some decent food by some remarkable people.
| Swen Wassmer |
| cod, cucumber, yoghurt |
| scallops, tomato, pine |
| beef, lemon, leek hearts |
| chocolate & fennel |
Matching Wines:
Pfalz Riesling Brut 2009 Reichsrat von Buhl
Kamptal Gruener Veltliner Loesterrassen 2011 Gobelsburg
Blanco Venezia Giulia “Blanc des Rosis” 2009 Schiopetto
Chamoson Petite Arvine 2010 Favre
Chard Farm Mata Au Pinot Noir 2009 Central Otago
Nach Sieben Likoerwein 2003 VOLG
Bottle Apostle usually hold supper clubs in their basement. You can check them out on http://www.bottleapostle.com Look out for Sven Wassmer - this food was stunning! & other collaborations they may have. Highly Recommended!
Thanks to Sophie Denning I was a guest, kindly invited by Bottle Apostle and therefore did not pay for this meal which would have cost £70.
For more of an in-depth account of the food and the wine please visit a blog called REAL SIMPLE FOOD whom I shared the lovely evening with.
Wednesday, 13 June 2012
Book Review: "Ru" By Kim Thúy
"Ru" is a memoir, fictional and autobiographical. It is non linear in its chronological order, one moment in the past, another in the present. It is neither driven by plot nor narrative but by a visceral poetry and imagery of war and peace intermingled with the matter of human love between mother and daughter.
I last read such a painful depiction of war in "The Pianist" by Wladyslaw Szpilman but this isn't a story about the war but a story about what happened after the war:
"As a child, I thought that war and peace were opposites. Yet I lived in peace when Vietnam was in flames and I didn't experience war until Vietnam laid down its weapons."
When I was little, I would often eavesdrop my mother who nattered endlessly to her friends whilst I was colouring-in or pretending to be watching the television. She gossiped about her youthful days before I was born (during the war) in her white an áo dài. She was beautiful and was being wooed by handsome men, all she had to do was pick a husband. She reminisced on having fun with her brothers and sisters over hot steamed buns and fried fish. When they craved a certain thing to eat, like a barbecued pork bánh mì that they couldn't afford, they would order one with little or without fillings and share things between themselves and delight over delicious tastes. The stories were endless but seemed peaceful and happy.
I hardly heard stories of people being blown up and the horrors of war, perhaps they knew my young keen ears were listening after all. When we immigrated to the west as refugees, the story of the boat people after the war was never told. It was all about the Americans, who were defeated by "rice eaters" and the suffering of their own men in Platoon, Full Metal Jacket and Apocalypse Now. Nothing was heard of the millions of Vietnamese people who were not only stripped of their livelihoods, homes, land and possessions but also of food and lived in fear for their lives. Families sent their sons and daughters to escape out to sea, facing death, be it on land or sea, they risked it for freedom. At sea, women and girls were raped by pirates then fed to sharks and many simply died in storms or starvation/ thirst on fishing boats or were captured, denounced and sent to "re-education" camps. On land, everyone had to whisper in fear of a Viet Cong with a gun, who may or may not take your life.
This is what Kim Thúy evokes in Ru - "In Vietnamese it means lullaby; in French, it is a small stream, but also signifies a flow - of tears, blood and money." She poignantly draws an image of hunched back women who bent over for decades picking rice grains to that of a six year old boy, killed while delivering a message:
"I cried with joy as I took my two sons by the hand, but I cried as well because of the pain of that other Vietnamese mother who witnessed her son's execution. An hour before his death, that boy was running across the rice paddy with the wind in his hair, to deliver messages from one man to another, from one hand to another, from one hiding place to another, to prepare for the revolution, to do his part for the resistance, but also, sometimes, to help send a simple love note on its way.
That son was running with his childhood in his legs. He couldn't see the very real risk of being picked up by soldiers of the enemy camp. He was six years old, maybe seven. He couldn't read yet. All he knew was how to hold tightly in his hands the scrap of paper he'd been given. Once he was captured, though, standing in the midst of rifles pointed at him, he no longer remembered where he was running to, or the name of the person the note was addressed to, or his precise starting point. Panic muted him. Soldiers silenced him. His frail body collapsed on the ground and the soldiers left, chewing their gum. His mother ran across the rice paddy where traces of her son's footprints were still fresh. In spite of the sound of the bullet that had torn the space open, the landscape stayed the same. The young rice shoots continued to be cradled by the wind, imperturbable in the face of the brutality of those oversized loves, of the pains too muted for tears to flow, for cries to escape from that mother who gathered up in her old mat the body of her son, half buried int he mud."
I met Kim Thúy when she came to London on a book tour and I was invited to have dinner with her at the General Agent of Quebec's residence in Holland Park. The dinner was imaginative in flavours and really superb and the General and his wife hosted a lovely evening where I got to ask Kim Thúy many questions.
Like myself, Kim Thúy has had to reinvent herself in many ways before she has devoted all her time to writing. She was a seamstress, translator, lawyer and a cook/ restaurant owner. Kim said she only ever cooked one dish and people would come to her restaurant and eat that. She laughed that she would never call herself a "chef". "I am just a cook," and she giggled all evening. No matter how being in the west "had given confidence to my voice, determination to my actions, precision to my desires, speed to my gait and strength to my gaze…" Kim had a heart of a Vietnamese lady even though she says in her book, "I no longer had the right to declare I was a Vietnamese because I no longer had their fragility, their uncertainty, their fears." She laughs and jokes and I relate to her as "Chi", meaning, sister.
She tells me how her book is not yet accepted in Vietnam as this story of war during times of peace is not really talked about. "Children nowadays do not know why so many people had fled and why they come back to visit."
She says that if she had written her actual story, there would be just three pages. "Its not just about me", she says, "its about many boat people who had to leave the country." It took her a year to write this book and she weaved stories she heard together to make one.
She says it means to a lot to her when Vietnamese people who have immigrated relate to her book. I feel that she gives us a voice, rarely people are aware of what happened to all those millions who fled and were lost at sea.
"Some (Vietnamese) people criticise it for not having a stronger side against the Communist," she chatted, "I wanted it to be more about our plight."
It could easily take 2 and a half hours to read "Ru" entirely but it does seem like it has left pockets of insight in my heart and mind, staying with me, resonating and almost like when you see a thing of beauty or a thing of pain and you just want to cry out loud. It is as if she has given the reader a third dimension, by not saying everything, not placing too many words so that each person could possibly read, see and feel this book in many different ways.
Perhaps this story is very close to my heart and what my family went through but its got to be one of my most beautifully written books. Highly recommended!
Ru’s going to be a BBC Radio 4 Book at Bedtime from Monday 25 June 2012. It’ll be read by the French-Cambodian actress Elodie Yung. There’s no preview online for it yet, but this is the homepage for Book at Bedtime: http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b006qtlx
Kim Thúy is currently working on her next novel.
Thank you to Anna-Marie and Andrew Franklin at Profile Books for the invitation.
Thank you to The Agent General Quebec - Pierre Boulanger and his wife for hosting such a wonderful dinner.
Wednesday, 6 June 2012
Recipe: Roast Chicken With Lemongrass, Tamarind & Ginger Beer
100 Day Cock From The Ginger Pig
The Ginger Pig Butchery generously gave me a cockerel. It had been running around in the the Botterills of Lings Farm on the Belvoir Estate having a good time with its mates for 100 days (instead of 65 days for those other poor cousins who are grown commercially). Then they are dry plucked (poor things) and hung for a week and labelled as cockerels or pullets to ensure best results for excellent eating.
I came up with a Vietnamese style roast chicken, infused with lemon, kumquat and bay leaves and pineapple sage that I have growing in my garden. I marinaded it with lemongrass, tamarind, honey, wasabi, fish sauce and ginger beer and stuffed the breast with garlic and rau rum (hot mint) to give it the extra Vietnamese flavour.
The house smelt beautiful for 3 hours as it roasted slowly in the oven and the result was a delicious, delicate gravy sweet and sour, which complimented the great texture and juicy buttery-succulence of the bird.
Ingredients
For the bird and roasting tray
2.5kg 100 Day Cockerel
3 lemon leaves
3 kumquat leaves
3 bay leaves
1 stalk of pineapple sage
1 lemon - sliced and remove rind
2 carrots - peeled
2 onions - peeled and quatered
4 garlic cloves - finely chopped
20g butter
5 large leaves of rau ram/ hot mint
Marinade
4 stalks of lemongrass - finely chopped/ blended
4 tbs fish sauce
2 tbs honey
4 fresh tamarind (110g) - peeled and deseeded
200ml ginger beer
1 tsp wasabi
Method
Preheat oven to 160.
Grease a baking tray large enough for the bird. Place 2 lemon, kumquat and bay leaves and lay the chicken on top. Stuff the remainder leaves with the pineapple sage inside the cavity with the carrots and onion.
Finely chop garlic and hot mint together. Cut the cold butter into half centimetre squares and stick the chopped garlic and hot mint onto it.
Using a blunt knife, slide the knife through the neck and separate the skin and the breast meat. Place the butter with chopped garlic and hot mint in between the breast and the skin in different areas. Close the flap of the neck so that the garlic butter remains inside.
Prep the lemongrass and add this to the fish sauce, honey, wasabi and tamarind. Blend or mix well together and rub onto the chicken skin.
Place the slices of lemon on and around the chicken and bake for 1 hour then pour ginger beer over the roast chicken and cook for a further 1 hour and 20 mins, occasionally recoating the chicken with the juices of the roast.
Rest the chicken for at 15 - 20 mins before serving.
Serve with sticky rice or roast potatoes with a refreshing salad or green vegetables.
NB: If you can not get fresh lemon or kumquat leaves, use lime leaves which can be brought frozen from Asian stores. If you can't get hot mint/ rau ram - use thai basil.
Thank you to Nicola Swift at The Ginger Pig for sending me such a beautiful bird.
Rosie Hogg roasted her pullet with orange and thyme - recipe here
The Ginger Pig Butchery generously gave me a cockerel. It had been running around in the the Botterills of Lings Farm on the Belvoir Estate having a good time with its mates for 100 days (instead of 65 days for those other poor cousins who are grown commercially). Then they are dry plucked (poor things) and hung for a week and labelled as cockerels or pullets to ensure best results for excellent eating.
I came up with a Vietnamese style roast chicken, infused with lemon, kumquat and bay leaves and pineapple sage that I have growing in my garden. I marinaded it with lemongrass, tamarind, honey, wasabi, fish sauce and ginger beer and stuffed the breast with garlic and rau rum (hot mint) to give it the extra Vietnamese flavour.
The house smelt beautiful for 3 hours as it roasted slowly in the oven and the result was a delicious, delicate gravy sweet and sour, which complimented the great texture and juicy buttery-succulence of the bird.
Ingredients
For the bird and roasting tray
2.5kg 100 Day Cockerel
3 lemon leaves
3 kumquat leaves
3 bay leaves
1 stalk of pineapple sage
1 lemon - sliced and remove rind
2 carrots - peeled
2 onions - peeled and quatered
4 garlic cloves - finely chopped
20g butter
5 large leaves of rau ram/ hot mint
Marinade
4 stalks of lemongrass - finely chopped/ blended
4 tbs fish sauce
2 tbs honey
4 fresh tamarind (110g) - peeled and deseeded
200ml ginger beer
1 tsp wasabi
Method
Preheat oven to 160.
Grease a baking tray large enough for the bird. Place 2 lemon, kumquat and bay leaves and lay the chicken on top. Stuff the remainder leaves with the pineapple sage inside the cavity with the carrots and onion.
Finely chop garlic and hot mint together. Cut the cold butter into half centimetre squares and stick the chopped garlic and hot mint onto it.
Using a blunt knife, slide the knife through the neck and separate the skin and the breast meat. Place the butter with chopped garlic and hot mint in between the breast and the skin in different areas. Close the flap of the neck so that the garlic butter remains inside.
Prep the lemongrass and add this to the fish sauce, honey, wasabi and tamarind. Blend or mix well together and rub onto the chicken skin.
Place the slices of lemon on and around the chicken and bake for 1 hour then pour ginger beer over the roast chicken and cook for a further 1 hour and 20 mins, occasionally recoating the chicken with the juices of the roast.
Rest the chicken for at 15 - 20 mins before serving.
Serve with sticky rice or roast potatoes with a refreshing salad or green vegetables.
NB: If you can not get fresh lemon or kumquat leaves, use lime leaves which can be brought frozen from Asian stores. If you can't get hot mint/ rau ram - use thai basil.
Thank you to Nicola Swift at The Ginger Pig for sending me such a beautiful bird.
Rosie Hogg roasted her pullet with orange and thyme - recipe here
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