Wednesday, 30 November 2011

Laurent Perrier In The GreenHouse

The car drove me from Hackney through to Mayfair and Bond Street. Christmas lights were already up, sparkling away in cold London town. We stood still in rush hour traffic and I marveled at all the designer shops as I window shopped in a black car. For a moment, I pretended to be wealthy, imagined myself top to toe in Armani and Mui Mui with Prada shoes and a Mulberry purse, smelling of Dior. But in actual fact, I was wearing clothes I made, in replica of my designer heros, made by a tailor in Saigon, fabric I bought from a market. I was on my way to a Laurent Perrier event at The GreenHouse, hidden in a residential mews of Mayfair.
I haven't been to a blogger/ press event in ages. Been busy supper clubbing, teaching and being with people I know and like. It has been over 18 months since I first went to them, one of them being a Champagne Afternoon Tea at The Dorchester with Laurent Perrier. For the desire of the champagne, I went and what better than to a Michelin starred restaurant, for a five course meal from Head Chef Antonin Bonnet, worth £240/ head with champagne matching. Why the hell not?!

Pleasant. Pleasant to see familiar faces, from the lovely David Hesketh - Master Of Wine, MD of Laurent Perrier UK to the blogger supremes - Chris Pople, Food Stories, Hugh Wright, A Girl Has To Eat, Slow Food Kitchen and so forth. Disappointed not to see Algernon Moncrief though.

Chris Pople, David Hesketh, Lucy London
Each course was paired with a Laurent Perrier champagne: Ultra Brut, Millésimé 2002, Grand Cuvée - Grand Siècle, Demi-Sec and Cuvée Rosé. The meal was great! Everything was of course cooked very well and offered what fine dinning offers - mainly lobster! and that is just fine.
My companion, Ernest Yang Opoku and I couldn't stop buttering the lovely selection of bread for our fair share of carbs to absorb at least 7 glasses of champagne. I would be happy if someone took me here for dinner (although I do wish fine dinning would explore more of the Eastern taste explosion avenue) but until I am all in Chanel, it will be a long time before it would be possible to return.
Apple Cider Marinated Mackerel, Horseradish Snow & Pickled Black Radish
Atlantic Cod, Leek Fondue, Smoked Potato, Yuzu & Champagne Sauce
Poached Scottish Lobster, Cep Mushroom Ravioli, Chicken Oyster Bisque
Rhubarb & Apple Milefeuille
Treats
A lovely but formal evening, thanks to WildCard PR for having me because they know I love champagne. I really do.

Tuesday, 29 November 2011

Love & Other Afflictions: Table Manners

When a boy offers you the last of something tasty, scraps all of the fish meat from the bone and gives you the last bit (that he really wants) he's a keeper. My mother says you can judge a person by their table manners and their relationship with food: how generous they are as a person and with money, how they like to share or not to share, how diverse and adventurous they are and basically if they care about you at all and how self centred they are or are not.

When boys open doors, pulls a chair out or gets up because you need to go to the powder room in a formal restaurant - its amazing to be treated like a princess. Its a change to the various mishaps I have had in my life.
After 60 years together, my grandparents still hold hands at the table
There have been many incidences over the years of my bringing home a boy and he mis behaves at the table. I had always had such high hopes for the boys but they would show their true colours at the dinner table and there wasn't anything anyone can do to hide the hues.

Sometimes, it happens straight away but sometimes, it lurks and only years or months after you have fallen in love and decided to be in a relationship or worse, move in with the person, the manners topple.

It is never polite in a Vietnamese culture to hoard food from the table onto your bowl or dish. When there are dishes of food on the table for sharing, they are meant for sharing and it is never customary to take half a fillet of the fish and plonk it onto your own bowl. We are only to take what we would eat there and then and come back for more.

So when a boy does that, it is forgivable because he doesn't know our culture, but if he hurriedly and repeatedly commits the crime and snatches the food whilst someone else is trying to get at it, its a No! There have been so many times when I am trying to pick up a piece of meat or fish with my chopsticks and he just snatches it from me like some sort of a weasel, with no shame whatsoever and throws it into his mouth like a thief. He would even chuckle at his success, especially when he takes a piece from your chopsticks in mid air.

There was one who took all of the meaty duck onto his plate and left the boney bits. Or the one who says, I can't deal with bones so I am not going to eat it; did you put any sugar in that? If so, I'll make something else…

The worst one was over Tet, a Lunar New Year celebration where traditional food must be cooked and eaten, a boy sat down at the table, had a look at everything including a whole duck, spring rolls, New Years cake and the works and said, I am not eating that, sorry, I fancy a roast and got up and made a whole roast dinner. What the hell? That ruined the new year celebrations and cursed the year to come. Our relationship was of course, doomed.
My uncle and his sons when we visited LA
Order a hot pot and do the sharing test
 
Sharing food is one of the most important things in the Vietnamese culture and I love the way one can display a stream of affection in one meal. First of all, by cooking it with love and always picking up the meatiest tastiest slice of pork belly or fish flesh and offering it to the one you are most affectionate with - a special guest, a young child, a parent, a sibling, a lover.

Loud discussions over dinner are always welcomed but eating in silence and shared solitude is also enjoyed. There needs to be no song nor dance because to just enjoy food together seems to be enough when you share everything.
A rare picture of people at the dinner table (back in the day)
My cousins In Vietnam
It is great news when the boy brings and offers food, like oysters or dessert and even a bottle of champagne because he loves food, he loves eating and he loves to share it all with you and he would try anything you make, eat it all even if sometimes he doesn't even like it.

If he goes one step further and makes a home cooked meal of many courses, made with love and care, it is definitely more romantic than eating out. He has everything prepped and ready, everything cleared and cleaned up - and just finishes off and serves you. I love it.

What about when a boy cooks for you and its a disaster? I have been invited to dinner at 6, had to wait in the pub with his mother and brother because he's off drinking somewhere else till 1030 -and we are waiting…for a long time... now thats a bit awkward and boring too… to be continued…

Monday, 28 November 2011

Cinquecento - 500

I love a bit of fine dinning every now and again but when I discover a restaurant that is all about serving great and delicious food - I am happier than ever and I would choose this over any posh nosh.

We couldn't get tickets to see Lana Del Rey when she was playing at The Scala, so The Boy From Alassio booked us a table for two at 'Cinquecento' - meaning, 500, inspired by the beautiful classic Fiat 500.
Fiat 500 spotted in Wandsworth
Tucked behind one of the very few trees on Holloway Road by Archway station, is this quite uninspiring place. It doesn't look terrible but it doesn't look great, kinda like being in Italy's restaurants. However, it is filled with people and that is usually the best sign, especially for being in such a location.

My favourite dish was the tagliatelle with white truffle - it was one of the most amazing things I have ever eaten for around £19. Then we had venison and the veal scallopini - both topped with black truffle for an extra £5.50 - it was packed with truffle- amazing value.

Everything we had was made very well, like it was made with love, understanding and generousity.

One of the best Italian meals I have ever had is here.
Highly recommended. The Boy From Alassio will kill me for not being able to keep a secret.
Venision With Black Truffle
500 Restaurant
782 Holloway Road
London
N19 3JH

www.500restaurant.co.uk

Tuesday, 22 November 2011

Viajante - A Tour Of The Town Hall With Nuno Mendes

Nuno Mendes
Last week, I had the pleasure of dinning at Viajante, Bethnal Green with Douglas Blyde (journalist), Christopher Turner (editor of Icon and Cabinet Magazine) and Signe Bindslev Henriksen and Peter Bundgaard Rützou - (the designers of Noma - the world's best restaurant). They had spontaneously taken a trip to London (their home town Copenhagen).
Signe Bindslev Henriksen and Peter Bundgaard Rützou
We had the six course menu, plus many other surprises along the way with wine matching all in presence of Nuno Mendes standing quietly but gloriously by his mute yet theatrical open plan kitchen room.
I had previously been to Viajante when it first opened for lunch and often for cocktails. What I had this time was entirely marvelous, (except for a couple of natural wines that tasted too BoHo for me). It was indeed an experience to indulge in, to take pleasure of, to give time for… each plate arrived with tastes that intrigued my tongue of notes wonderfully combined.

I only wish I had scribbled what we ate. I was pleased there was no menu, everything explained and it was all a surprise. I love this way of dinning, similar to The Loft Project and also similar to what I do at my own supper club.

It had passed midnight and everyone was packing up for the night when Nuno Mendes, showed us around the The Town Hall: his hotel, conference rooms, private rooms and The Corner Room. This was a rare and special treat to have a tour by the man himself.

Nuno Mendes presents himself immaculate in his chef whites with a pair of tweezers on his black apron and has the aura of a quiet Japanese man seeping in calm and zen. He speaks in a gentle voice and smiles with his entire face - his eyes curve, even his pupils smiles. But as he toured us around the corridors and stairwells, I notice his ripped jeans and boxers sneaking through the chef whites. It made him all the more humane and incredible because he was wearing comfortable sandals.

He tells us his personal likes and dislikes of the design, the space and how it is combined. His ambitions to regain perfection will be endless as he embraces the spirit and soul of The Town Hall - you can feel his arms wrapped around the place with all of his love.
Nuno Mendes, Signe Bindslev Henriksen, Christopher Turner, Douglas Blyde
Peter Bundgaard Rützou
The Corner Room
Hotel Swimming Pool
Viajante
Patriot Square
Bethnal Green
London E2 9NF
+44 (0) 20 7871 0461
www.viajante.co.uk